Fair trade, how to read the label.

Because it’s more complex than you might think, I’ve listed the most important fashion labels when it comes to fair trade clothing.

WFTO

Becoming a member of the World Trade Organization is only possible if a company provides evidence that it correctly applies their ten fair trade principles. The company must:

1) Create opportunities for those who are less fortunate.
2) Be transparent when it comes to their production process
3) Execute honest trade
4) Pay fair wages
5) Do not force anyone to work
6) No child labor
7) Guarantee equality
8) Have good working conditions
9) Capacity building

10) show respect for the environment

Fair trade international

The former Max Havelaar is committed to certifying Fairtrade cotton, for which it wants to give the cotton farmers a fair price. Since June 2016, Fairtrade International certifies the entire production chain and therefore also focuses on confection and on other fabrics besides cotton. Control body Flo-Cert checks the production process before a brand can receive the Fairtrade label.

Fair wear foundation
Is a multi stakeholder initiative controlled by employers, trade unions and non-governmental organizations. Becoming a member of the fair wear foundation is an indication that a company is working on improving the working conditions in the sewing workshops. It includes a commitment and support platform for companies that want to work step by step in fair fashion.

Better cotton initiative
Cotton initiative works, among other things, on transferring knowledge about how cotton can be grown with fewer pesticides, with more efficient use of water while maintaining good soil quality and biodiversity. Better cotton initiative also pays attention to working conditions, especially on larger cotton plantations.

Organic cotton standard

The organic cotton standard tries to guarantee the traceability of raw materials during the processing. OCS 100 is a label for products that consist of 95% biological material. OCS blended is made from mixed fibers, which consist of at least 5 percent of biological materials to make cotton 95 percent less harmful.

GRS
The global recycled standard certifies all steps of the production process for recycling. The purpose of the label is to check the integrity of the recycled product.
Gold: 95 to 100 pct recycled material.
Silver: 70 to 95 pct recycled material.
Bronze: From 30 pct

RCS
The recycled claim standard certifies the proportion of recycled material in clothing:
for RCS 100, 95 to 100 pc of the garment consists of recycling, with RCS Blended it amounts to 5 to 95 pc

ISO
ISO develops standards such as ISO 9001 for quality management and ISO 14001 for environmental measures of specific production sites. If a clothing brand says that they have an ISO 14001 certificate, this probably means that they have an environmental management system within their own operations that is aiming for constant improvement. Because clothing is often produced outside of Belgium, this label is usually not indicative of the garments sustainability.

Gots
The Global organic textile standard certifies the process a cotton fluff (or other textile fiber) goes through: from raw material to organic clothing. It makes sure that the raw materials are originated from organic farms. GOTS also speaks about working conditions in the textile chain, such as child labor, forced labor, trade union freedom, and fair wages. However, a fair price for a farmer is not guaranteed by GOTS. A related label is that of IVN. The IVN label goes checks up on more than GOTS do,  in terms of ecology.

SCS
Scientific Certification system is an independent body that checks on a set of ecological criteria. The label, which is more relevant for entrepreneurs than for consumers, also has Fair trade standards.

STEP
Sustainable textile production is an Oeko tex label that combines ecological and social criteria. This label will not be found on your clothes, but more and more on labels of clothing brands. It depends on a specific factory, for example one spinning mill, weaving mill or sewing workshop. If a brand unpacks with a label, you can demand that part of the chain is STEP-certified. The label goes very far in terms of ecology and health, but less in social matters: meeting legal requirements such as paying the minimum wage is sufficient to achieve the label

OEKO TEX
Oeko tex standard 100 checks whether there are any harmful residues in the finished product. This label only provides guarantee about the end product and not about the way something is produced and the effect this has on the makers. The STEO by OEKO TEX standard continues to examine the production process

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